Meghalaya is more than just a paradise for nature lovers—it’s a treasure trove for food enthusiasts. While the state’s waterfalls and caves get all the attention, its food is equally captivating, hearty, and steeped in tribal traditions. If you’re planning a trip to Meghalaya, don’t just sightsee—eat your way through it.
As someone who’s spent weeks exploring the street markets of Shillong, dining in village homes, and sipping piping hot kwai (betel nut), here’s a locally-authentic food guide to Meghalaya for Indian travelers who crave more than just momo and chowmein.
1. Jadoh – The Soul of Khasi Cuisine
What is it?
Jadoh is a Khasi-style rice and meat dish—think of it as a more flavourful, meatier cousin of pulao. It’s made with red rice cooked in pork fat, seasoned with minimal but aromatic local spices, and typically served with pork chunks or offal.
Where to Try:
Jadoh Stall in Police Bazar (Shillong) – A small joint near Glory’s Plaza that serves some of the most authentic jadoh.
Trattoria, Shillong – Famous among locals and tourists alike.
Pro Tip:
Ask for the version cooked with pork blood if you’re feeling adventurous. It’s richer, darker, and truly traditional.
2. Dohneiiong – Pork in Black Sesame
What is it?
A deeply flavourful pork curry cooked with roasted black sesame seeds, Dohneiiong is a perfect example of Khasi culinary ingenuity. The nuttiness of sesame combines beautifully with the juicy pork.
Why You’ll Love It:
It’s earthy, smoky, and unlike any Indian curry you’ve tasted before. Goes perfectly with rice or putharo (steamed rice pancake).
Where to Try:
Tympew Cuisine, Laitumkhrah (Shillong)
Cafe Shillong Heritage – Slightly more upmarket, but consistently good.
3. Tungrymbai – Fermented Soybean Magic
What is it?
A fermented soybean dish stir-fried with onions, ginger, garlic, and pork, Tungrymbai is the Meghalaya equivalent of a probiotic superfood.
Warning:
The smell can be overpowering for first-timers. But if you’ve had natto or Korean doenjang, this will be a familiar and comforting bite.
Where to Try:
Homemade is best. Ask your homestay in villages like Nongriat or Mawlynnong.
La-Kuphi, Mawlai – Known for traditional Khasi platters.
4. Putharo and Dohjem – Steamed Rice Cake with Spicy Side
What is it?
Putharo is a spongy, steamed rice cake often eaten with Dohjem, a light pork or beef curry. Together, they’re a classic Khasi breakfast combo.
Where to Try:
Any morning street vendor in Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Jadoh stalls around Bara Bazar, Shillong
Budget Tip:
A full meal will cost you ₹50–₹70. Healthy, filling, and easy on the wallet.
5. Nakham Bitchi – Smoky Fish Broth from Garo Hills
What is it?
From the Garo community, this is a peppery broth made with Nakham (sun-dried fish), boiled with chilies and local herbs.
Taste Profile:
Salty, fishy, spicy, and smoky. Often eaten before the main meal to warm the stomach.
Where to Try:
Best experienced in Tura or Garo Hills homestays.
Chilies Restaurant in Shillong sometimes has Garo specialties on request.
6. Doh Khleh – Pork Salad, Khasi Style
What is it?
A refreshing dish made from boiled pork, onions, green chilies, and coriander—Doh Khleh is Meghalaya’s version of a pork chaat.
When to Eat:
Perfect as a starter or bar snack. Pair it with local rice beer or peach wine.
Where to Try:
Trattoria or Dew Drop Inn, Shillong
Also available in most roadside food joints.
7. Bamboo Shoot Pickle and Curries
What is it?
Tangy, pungent, and full of texture, bamboo shoot is used widely in Khasi and Garo kitchens. Whether pickled, curried, or dried, it adds depth to meals.
Try With:
Pork bamboo shoot curry
Dry bamboo shoot chutney with red chili and garlic
Where to Buy:
Local markets in Shillong, Cherrapunjee
Lewduh Market (Bara Bazar) for the freshest, homemade varieties
8. Pumaloi – Steamed Rice Flour Cake
What is it?
Pumaloi is a traditional Khasi steamed rice cake, usually prepared during festivals or family gatherings. It’s soft, mildly sweet, and sometimes served with meat curry.
Fun Fact:
It’s made without oil or added sugar—purely from fermented rice flour.
Where to Try:
Local homes or community feasts (try to attend a Nongkrem Dance Festival for authentic versions)
Select Khasi food restaurants like Tribal Flavors, Shillong
9. Local Meghalayan Thali – When You Want It All
What to Expect:
Some restaurants now offer a complete Khasi thali with jadoh, tungrymbai, dohneiiong, and local chutneys.
Where to Try:
Jiva Veg Restaurant, Shillong – Surprisingly good veg Khasi options
Tympew Cuisine or Trattoria for meat-lovers
Ideal For:
Those who want a sampler platter and are short on time.
10. Rice Beer & Local Spirits
What is it?
Known as Kyat among the Khasis and Chu among the Garos, rice beer is a staple during festivals, weddings, and everyday life in villages.
Where to Sip:
You won’t find it in commercial bars. Look for local homes, especially in Mawphlang, Nongriat, or Garo Hills.
During festivals like Shad Suk Mynsiem, local brews flow freely.
11. Meghalaya Street Food – Momos, Chowmein, and Beyond
While not strictly local, street food culture thrives in Meghalaya.
What to Try:
Chicken momos with spicy chutney
Smoked pork noodles
Fried sausage with onions and green chili
Best Places:
Laitumkhrah Market in Shillong
Dawki roadside stalls during evening hours
12. Kwai – The Cultural Bite
What is it?
More than just food, Kwai (betel nut with paan leaf and slaked lime) is a cultural offering in Meghalaya. You’ll see people chewing it everywhere.
Should You Try?
If you’re curious, yes—but be mindful, it stains teeth and has a mild stimulant effect.
Travel Tips for Foodies in Meghalaya
Be Adventurous, but Informed: Some dishes may include pork offal, fermented ingredients, or dried fish. Ask your host or server what’s in your food if unsure.
Visit Local Markets: Lewduh (Bara Bazar) in Shillong is a must for buying local ingredients, pickles, spices, and snacks.
Eat with Locals: Homestays often offer the most authentic meals. Villages like Mawphlang, Kongthong, and Nongriat are great for food-based experiences.
Vegetarian? Plan Ahead: Many local dishes are meat-based. Ask for veg versions (often made with potato, bamboo shoot, or lentils).
Final Thoughts
Food in Meghalaya is not just sustenance—it’s a doorway into the Khasi, Garo, and Jaintia cultures. Every dish tells a story of the land, its forests, and its people. If you truly want to connect with Meghalaya, don’t just admire the waterfalls—eat the jadoh, sip the kyat, chew the kwai.
Author - Jay
Jay is a passionate traveler and a Digital Marketer, The digital marketer traveler embarks on journeys to explore new cultures, seeking inspiration for creative online campaigns that resonate with diverse audiences worldwide
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